Easy DIY Board and Batten Wall - Angela Marie Made (2024)

This past weekend we installed a classic, DIY board and batten wall in our soon to be nursery! It was a really easy and affordable project that didn’t take much time at all!

We decided to do a board and batten accent wall and make it a very classic board and batten wainscoting style since we plan on adding wallpaper above it and making the wall a statement feature!

A few years ago, we did a bit fancier style of DIY board and batten in our bathroom on all the walls, which I love, but this tutorial is even simpler since it involves a few less pieces of molding and boards! The step by step tutorial and a video is below!

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This project cost us only $84 total to complete a 10ft. wall. That price includes the boards, caulk, and 1 gallon of paint. We already had the other materials on hand (roller, Liquid Nails, and spackle).

Also, for another style option, check out my tutorial on floor to ceiling board and batten with crown molding!

Note, this post contains some affiliate links. For more info see my disclosures here.

DIY Board and Batten Wall:

Materials Needed:

Tools Needed:

***Note, the amount of boards you will need depends on the measurement of your wall(s). Also, wood boards may be used instead of MDF, especially for rooms with a high water exposure. I used wood boards for my board and batten bathroom. MDF can be a less expensive alternative to wood though.

*See a full step by step video of this board and batten tutorial here and at the bottom of this post, along with a printable material list!*

1. Remove existing baseboards from wall

To remove the existing baseboard, score the top and corner caulk lines with a utility knife. Then, use a prybar and hammer to remove the baseboard from the wall.

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A Note About Baseboards for Board and Batten:

For our board and batten wall, we removed and replaced the existing baseboard (which was less than 1/4″ thick at the top) so that the battens (vertical boards) would line up perfectly and not have any weird overhang.

If you have baseboards like us that are thinner than the molding being used, you can technically cut the battens with a mitered angle at the bottom if you don’t want to remove the original baseboard.

But, it doesn’t look as nice or professional in my opinion as baseboards that are the same thickness as the vertical batten boards. That’s why we replaced our baseboard with the same style boards as the rest of the board and batten pieces.

Also, we used a 1×4 board (which measures 3.5″ tall) to match the existing height of the baseboard still in place on the other walls, for a seamless look! It’s totally up to you on what you prefer to do though for the baseboard!

And a Quick Note About Wall Texture:

Our walls have a slight texture to them, but it’s really not noticeable unless you get up close.

If you have a really textured wall though (that’s super noticeable) and want to make the wall totally smooth for your board and batten spacing, then I would attach a 1/8″ panel board (such as hardboard or plywood) cut to size on the wall. They come in 4×8 foot sheets and the home improvement store can cut them for you too.

Check out my floor to ceiling DIY board and batten accent wall tutorial to see how we covered our walls with panel boards due to damaged drywall.

2. Install new baseboard

Measure the length of your wall and cut the 1×4 to size using a miter saw.

Our wall was about 10ft long, so we bought the 12ft long pre-primed board and had Lowe’s cut the board to just a bit longer than 10ft so it would fit in our car. Then, we made the final exact cut with our miter saw at home.

If your wall is longer than 10 ft. you can just use multiple boards and fill the seams between boards with wood filler, spackle, or caulk.

Install the baseboard along the bottom of the wall with a brad nailer and 2″ brad nails going into the wall studs (use a studfinder to find the wall studs).

Use a level too for installation to ensure the baseboard is level when installed.

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Also, if you are just doing one accent wall like us, cut the adjacent wall molding corners (if needed) with a Dremel, jig saw, or wood chisel and hammer in order to fit the new board.

You can also use these tools to cut around any wall objects, like wall outlets, if needed. Check out my board and batten bathroom DIY tutorial for photos and details on how to cut around outlets, pipes, light switches, etc!

3. Attach middle board to wall

Determine how high up you want your DIY board and batten wall to be.

We wanted to do a little higher than halfway up the wall at 55″ high once the board and batten accent wall was complete. So, that meant our middle 1×4 board should be installed with the bottom of it 48″ above the top of the baseboard.

Use a level and mark 48″ up from the top of the baseboard on each side of the wall. Then, cut a 1×4 board to size for the length of the wall and install it at those marks with 2″ brad nails into the wall studs.

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4. Determine batten (vertical board) spacing

Determine what you want the spacing to be for your DIY board and batten. Common spacing includes anywhere between 12″ – 20″.

For this tutorial, I did 16.5″ between each board. And for our DIY board and batten bathroom (which was a much smaller room) I did 12″ spacing which was a good spacing for the small scale of the room. For our floor to ceiling DIY board and batten accent wall in our living room, which was a very large wall, I used 26″ spacing.

If you’re doing a board and batten accent wall and want to have a batten board starting and ending on both corners of the wall, here is how I figured out my exact batten spacing:

I knew I wanted around 16-18 inches of spacing between each board so it would like right visually. So, to figure out the math and see about how many battens that would be, I took our total wall length of 123.5″ and divided by 17″, which equaled roughly 7 boards.

To get the exact spacing, I then did the following math:

7 batten boards x 3.5″ (actual width of 1×4 boards) = 24.5″

123.5″ (length of wall) – 24.5″ = 99″

99″ / 6 (the # of spaces between 7 boards) = 16.5″

5. Attach battens (vertical boards) to the wall

Mark on the wall exactly where your battens need to go based on the spacing you determined in step #4.

Then, measure the exact height needed for each batten based on where they will be attached to the wall. Because most walls aren’t perfectly straight, the measurements may be slightly different for each. Cut each 1×4 batten to size using a miter saw.

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Use construction adhesive (we used Liquid Nails) and 1 1/4″ brad nails to attach the battens to the wall.

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6. Add the top board to board and batten wall

Cut your 1×2 board to size (this will be the top board) and install it on top of the middle 1×4 board with 1 1/4″ brad nails and some construction adhesive to create a top ledge.

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Also, we added our original shoe molding (quarter round) back to the baseboard to match our other side wall molding and cover flooring gaps.

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7. Fill holes, caulk, and paint DIY board and batten

Fill all nail holes with a lightweight spackle, allow it to dry, then lightly hand sand any excess if needed.

Next, caulk all seams and corners with a paintable caulk.

Finally, paint your DIY board and batten wall! If you didn’t use pre-primed boards, make sure to prime first. We used Sherwin Williams Mindful Gray in eggshell for our paint color.

Note, for step by step details on how to paint an accent wall, see our DIY painted accent wall tutorial!

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And here is the final reveal with the board and batten accent wall all painted!

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Overall, I just love how our DIY board and batten wall turned out! Especially, with the gray paint color instead of white paint to mix things up!

It’s really a simple, affordable project that can totally transform a room and add character! Next up we will be adding wallpaper above it which I’m super excited about doing!

If you create a board and batten wall, please share it with me on social media @angelamariemade or #angelamariemade! *You can also share your board and batten project in our Woodworking for the Home facebook group, be sure to join!

See the final nursery reveal here!

Follow along on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks, including all of our upcoming nursery projects!

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Yield: 1

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Active Time: 1 hour

Total Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Learn how to easily install a DIY board and batten wall in any room! This budget friendly and simple DIY board and batten accent wall will add instant character to your home!

Tools

Instructions

    1. Remove existing baseboards from the wall using a utility knife, prybar and hammer.
    2. Install the new baseboard with a 1x4 cut to size and 1 1/4" brad nails into the wall studs.
    3. Attach the middle 1x4 board to the wall into the wall studs. Attach it 48″ up from the top of the baseboard.
    4. Determine the batten (vertical board) spacing.
    5. Cut each 1×4 batten to size using a miter saw. Attach to the wall with constuction adhesive and 1 1/4"brad nails.
    6. Add the top 1x2 board on top of the middle board to create a ledge. Install with 1 1/4″ brad nails and some construction adhesive.
    7. Fill nail holes with spackle and caulk all the seams.
    8. Prime the board and batten if boards aren't pre-primed.
    9. Paint the board and batten with two coats of paint.

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Easy DIY Board and Batten Wall - Angela Marie Made (16)

Easy DIY Board and Batten Wall - Angela Marie Made (2024)

FAQs

How far apart should board and batten walls be spaced? ›

It's best to space them evenly, about 10-12 inches apart, but they don't have to be exact. For example, if your wall is 100 inches wide, you'll install a 2-inch board on either side, then have 96 inches left to fill. Divide 96 by 12 (the number of inches between each batten, center to center) to get 8.

Are board and batten walls outdated? ›

"Board and batten is a timeless siding technique that can be [enjoyed] in various architectural styles—from vernacular and Victorian to modern and contemporary," notes Neubert. "Architects will continue to experiment with this siding technique for the foreseeable future."

What is the best wood for board and batten? ›

You can use nearly any type of wood for an interior board and batten wall. Popular options include premium pine, poplar, and even MDF. For board and batten walls that won't be painted, hardwoods such as oak and maple are great options.

What is the best height for board and batten? ›

While the height of board and batten is a matter of personal preference, a good rule of thumb is to place the height either above or below the center of the wall. For our eight-foot wall, we are installing board and batten at a height of five feet.

Does board and batten need to be nailed to studs? ›

If you're using thin, lightweight lumber, you won't need to stress about it. However, for everything else, it's a good idea to attach your boards to the studs wherever possible. If you can't find a wall stud, use wood glue/liquid nails and a nail that's long enough to secure the wood to the wall.

How do you calculate batten spacing? ›

Add 1 to your number of spaces to get the number of battens on the wall. Now multiply your batten width by the number of battens. Subtract that number from your total wall length. Divide that number by the number of spaces you calculated earlier, and THAT number will be your exact spacing between each batten.

What is a cheaper alternative to board and batten? ›

Lap siding is generally cheaper than board and batten siding, costing $2 to $6 per square foot on average, while board and batten siding costs $5 to $13 per square foot on average. The total cost of either option fluctuates based on the material used, the size of your home, and local labor rates.

What are the disadvantages of board and batten? ›

The biggest challenge to board and batten siding is budgetary, both in time and cost. Because of the careful installation technique and extra batten pieces to cover plank seams, board and batten siding requires additional materials and time at installation.

Which is better shiplap or board and batten? ›

Conclusion. Board and batten and shiplap are both outstanding choices for residential design, each with its own charm and versatility. Board and batten's vertical orientation and elegant lines add a touch of sophistication, while shiplap's horizontal profile invites a cozy and rustic feel.

Do you nail or screw board and batten? ›

You will need at least 1-3/4” screws for the wide boards and at least 2-3/4” for the narrow battens. Boards should be screwed 2” from both the top and the bottom and then at least every 2' vertically. Nails are not recommended for exterior wood siding!

Do you need furring strips for board and batten? ›

For best success with DIY board and batten, start with a smooth wall texture. We used furring strips to do our walls in our original dining area for the vertical wood strips, and larger 1 x 3's for the horizontal top strips.

How thick should wood be for board and batten? ›

In appearance, board-and-batten siding can look rustic or modern, depending on how rough the lumber is and its finish. The most common arrangement uses 1x10 boards and 1x2 or 1x3 batten. You can also use 1x8 or 1x12 boards and 1x4 battens.

How much of a gap for board and batten? ›

How Do I Know What Spacing to Use For Board and Batten Siding? There is no hard and fast rule for the spacing of board and batten siding, but many like the appearance of a 1:3 or 1: 4 ratio. For example, if we use a 1” x 10” board, a common batten would be either a 1” x 3”, or a 1” x 4”.

Do you put board and batten horizontal or vertical first? ›

How to install board and batten. Step 1: Remove and replace existing baseboards. Step 2: Attach the top horizontal board. Step 3: Attach the vertical battens.

How tall should board and batten be on 9 foot wall? ›

Step 1: Measure the total length of your wall. Write it down. Step 2: Measure the height that you're wanting (we have 9 ft ceilings and our board and batten is approximately 53" high).

What is the standard batten spacing? ›

Each product has different requirements, for example, batten spacing for (0.42BMT) corrugated metal roofing needs to be no more than 1100 mm apart, but batten spacing for 0.48BMT metal roofing can be up to 1600 mm apart.

Does board and batten need to be evenly spaced? ›

It is okay if the spacing of the battens is slightly different on adjoining walls especially if you keep the spacing equal throughout the individual wall.

What is the expansion gap for board and batten? ›

With wood board and batten, the boards should have a small gap between them to allow for expansion and contraction. If your boards are 6” wide, space them ⅛”-¼” apart. We recommend that for every additional 4 inches of board width, you add in ¼” more of space.

What is batten spacing? ›

Battens should be fixed to rafters set at centres not more than 600 mm apart unless calculated and should span across at least 3 rafters. To ensure this, the battens should be at least 1.2m long. Not more than one in four course of battens should be joined over one truss for gauges over 200mm.

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