Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (2024)

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Emily Han

Emily Han

Emily Han is a Los Angeles-based recipe developer, educator, herbalist, and author of Wild Drinks & co*cktails and co-author of Wild Remedies. For recipes and classes, check out her personal site.

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updated Jan 29, 2020

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Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (1)

Makesabout 3 cups

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Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (2)

It’s funny how we can maintain that we don’t like a certain food, even as evidence mounts to the contrary. Me, I’ve had a lifelong aversion to eggplant. So when a couple of fat ones appeared in our CSA box, I automatically filled with dread. What on earth would I do with these ghastly vegetables (err, fruits)? After a bit of soul-searching, however, it dawned on me that eggplant actually stars in many of my favorite restaurant dishes – baba ghanoush, kashk-e bademjan, baklazhannaia ikra – all soft and smoky, and addictively delicious when smeared on warm bread. Now I’m kicking myself for wasting so many years not cooking eggplant at home.

For this foray into eggplant cookery, I decided to try Russian-style ikra, also known as eggplant caviar or poor man’s caviar, a velvety spread that can be eaten as an appetizer or side dish. My research turned up many recipe variations, most with tomatoes (fresh or canned) and some with onions, garlic, carrots, peppers, herbs, vinegar, or lemon juice. Rescuing me from overwhelm was my Aunt Margaret, who shared her own family recipe, which turns out to be one of the simplest of all. It beats any restaurant ikra I’ve tasted and is a new summer staple in my household.

My Aunt Margaret grew up in Los Angeles, the daughter of post-World War II Russian immigrants. She learned how to make eggplant ikra from her mom, who in turn learned it from her mother and other relatives. “Mom never had the luxury of getting ‘precise’ quantities,” says Margaret, “but she watched many times how the dish was made, was able to reproduce it, and taught me by just showing me what needed to be done, how much of each ingredient was necessary – not forgetting of course the Taste Test! After a few shots at it, I got it down just like Mom’s and Grandma’s versions.” Even though we aren’t blood relatives, I’m endlessly grateful that Margaret shared this piece of her family heritage with me, and now you.

Margaret’s ikra calls for just a handful of ingredients: eggplant, onions, tomato paste, oil, salt, and pepper. Roasting the eggplant transforms the texture from spongy to silky, and the smoky-sweet flavor melds perfectly with tender sautéed onions and umami-rich tomato paste. I tinkered with her method only slightly for the recipe below. (For example, I prefer olive oil, while she uses canola.) It makes about 3 cups, which seems like a lot until you start – and can’t stop – eating it on everything from Russian rye bread to pita crackers, on sandwiches, with eggs for breakfast, and with pasta for dinner (add a little chopped parsley and cheese, if you wish). Yes, I think I can now say I love eggplant!

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Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (Baklazhannaia Ikra)

Makes about 3 cups

Nutritional Info

Ingredients

  • 2

    large eggplants (about 1 pound each

  • Olive oil, vegetable oil, or canola oil for cooking

  • 2

    medium onions, chopped

  • 3/4 cup

    (6 ounces) tomato paste

  • Kosher salt

  • Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

  2. Prick the eggplants all over with a fork and place on a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast in the center of the oven, turning over once, until soft, about 1 hour.

  3. Let the eggplants cool in a colander in the sink, where their juices can drain. When cool enough to handle, press any excess liquid out. (This step helps to reduce any bitterness.)

  4. Meanwhile, heat 1/4 cup of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 20 minutes.

  5. Cut the eggplants in half and scoop out the flesh. Discard the peel. Using a large knife, chop the flesh very finely. (Avoid using a food processor, as you want the eggplant to be more textured than a purée.)

  6. Add the eggplant to the onions along with the tomato paste, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a couple good cracks of black pepper. Turn the heat to low-medium and cook, stirring frequently, for 10-15 minutes. Add more oil as necessary to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pan. (Be liberal with the oil; any excess will rise to the top as the mixture cools, and you can remove it then, if you wish.)

  7. Transfer the mixture to a heat-proof bowl and let it cool completely before storing in the refrigerator. Adjust salt and pepper to taste before serving.

Related: Recipe Review: Roasted Eggplant Caviar from Good Food

(Images: Emily Ho)

Filed in:

Gluten-Free

Side Dish

vegan

Vegetables

vegetarian

Dairy-Free

Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (2024)

FAQs

How do you get the most flavor out of eggplant? ›

Eggplants have a spongy texture that absorbs fats and flavors perfectly, but only when slightly dehydrated with the help of a couple of sprinkles of salt, explains Norton. "Add a pinch of salt to both sides of eggplant slices and let them sit on the counter for up to an hour.

Does eggplant need to be soaked before frying? ›

Typically eggplant behaves like a sponge, soaking up heroic amounts of oil when fried. The Terzo Piano chefs use this trick to prevent heavy aubergines: Before frying, soak the strips of eggplant in an ice water bath. They will absorb water and drop in temperature.

What is the dip made from eggplant? ›

Classic baba ganoush is made by roasting eggplants until soft, scooping out the insides, and mashing with tahini, garlic, and spices. Served with pita or cracker, this eggplant dip is a great snack or party appetizer.

What is the secret to cooking eggplant? ›

Eggplants are known to absorb a lot of fat while cooking. A useful tip to prevent sogginess and greasiness is to salt sliced or diced eggplant and let it sit for an hour. This helps to draw out moisture. Next, rinse and drain any liquid from the sliced eggplant, then pat dry before cooking.

What happens if you don't salt eggplant before cooking? ›

Older recipes call for salting eggplant to draw out the bitter juices, but today's eggplants are less bitter (unless very large), so salting is largely unnecessary. It will, however, help the spongy flesh absorb less oil and crisp up like a dream.

What is the most popular way to eat eggplant? ›

Top 10 Ways to Enjoy Eggplants
  1. Yes, You Can Curry It! Cut eggplant into cubes and add to your favorite curry sauce and simmer until tender. ...
  2. Stir-Fry. ...
  3. Baba Ganoush.
  4. Roast, Peel and Serve over Pasta. ...
  5. Eggplant Pizza! ...
  6. Bread, Bake and Serve. ...
  7. A New Kind of Kebob. ...
  8. Eggplant Lasagna.

Why is my fried eggplant mushy? ›

Blame the Air Pockets for Eggplant's Sogginess

It's all thanks to the vegetable's cellular structure. Eggplant has soft, spongy flesh loaded with tiny air pockets, which are quick to absorb up hot oil or liquids.

Why is my fried eggplant bitter? ›

The white part of an eggplant, also known as the "flesh," can sometimes turn bitter when cooked due to the presence of a naturally occurring compound called solanine. Solanine is a glycoalkaloid that is found in many members of the nightshade family of plants, which includes eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers.

Why isn't my eggplant crispy? ›

The best eggplant is caramelized and crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth tender on the inside. This is achieved by giving the cubes or slices enough room to brown while they cook. If you overcrowd them in the pan or baking sheet, they'll steam instead of brown and you'll never get that caramelization.

How do you eat Trader Joe's eggplant spread? ›

Based on a traditional Bulgarian recipe (and made in Bulgaria to boot), our Eggplant Garlic Spread is stellar on sandwiches, toast, crackers, and crostini, to be sure. But it also makes for a mighty flavorful addition to a traditional ratatouille—particularly when said ratatouille is paired with penne pasta…

Why do you put an egg in eggplant? ›

First recorded in 1763, the word "eggplant" was originally applied to white cultivars, which look very much like hen's eggs (see image). Similar names are widespread in other languages, such as the Icelandic term eggaldin or the Welsh planhigyn ŵy.

How long do you soak eggplant before cooking? ›

Submerge the pieces in the salted water. Use an upside-down plate or pot lid to weigh down the eggplant so it is fully submerged in the water. Let the eggplant sit in the brine for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour. Drain the eggplant and pat it dry with a clean kitchen towel or layers of paper towels.

Should you soak eggplant in milk or salt water? ›

Soak it in milk.

Soak eggplant slices or cubes in milk for about 30 minutes before cooking. The milk not only tempers the bitterness, but it actually makes for eggplant that is extra creamy, since the vegetable acts like a sponge and soaks up a good amount of milk in its flesh.

Do you rinse eggplant after salting it? ›

Carefully rinse each piece of eggplant under cold water, making sure you remove all the salt. Drain. Step 3: Transfer the rinsed eggplant pieces, a few at a time, to a clean work surface and pat dry with paper towel.

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